Marx Engels 2013

Over the hills and far away, somewhere in the heart of Asia, lie two beautiful peaks. Their names are equally ridiculous to enormous walls guarding them. Rarely climbed, never traversed. Ever seen by Europeans? Maybe few times, usually from a far distance...


The expedition has two complementary objectives―sport and exploration ones.

Sport Objective
Despite of worldwide achievements of Polish mountaineers, the highest peak of Shakhdara Range (SW Pamir), Karl Marx Peak (6,723m), has never been reached by Polish. The sport objective is, therefore, to make the first Polish ascent. The expedition plans to do thus through the south face route passing Nishgar ice-fall. The route is graded as 4B in the Russian grading system.

Exploration Objective
In opposite to popular Pamir peaks, such as famous Snow Leopard peaks, there is nearly no information about Marx Peak and neighboring Engels Peak (6,510m). While the situation with the first one is slightly better, since it was reached at least twice during the last 15 years, the second one, basing on extensive investigation, appears to be unclimbed since 80’. The conditions present in the region of the peak, e.g., the topography of glaciers, remain unknown, therefore. The exploration objective is to explore and document the Engels Peak’s region.